Bill Kelso
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The Development of a New Youth Culture
The Rock and Roll Age
As the size and shape of a new student based population emerged in the 1960s, teenagers often adopted a distinctive set of attitudes that many of their parents often found disconcerting. Among other cultural changes, in the 1960s there were new norms shaping 1) our view of life, 2) how we should dress, 3) the nature of dating and 4) and what was most appropriate ways to entertain ourselves.
From Self Restraint to Self-Expression
For example, before the rise of large companies and the age of mass advertising most people lived on either farms or ran small businesses. In this simpler economy many individuals felt their financial situation was often precarious. To financially survive, American culture stressed the need for people to exercise self-discipline, to show restrain, to save and reinvent in their local businesses or farm if they wanted to survive.
However, with the rise of large impersonal businesses and the growth of a more affluent economy all of that changed. With the growth of the American economy in the 20th century, individuals ceased being solo entrepreneurs and instead found themselves as employees of large corporations whose allegiance to the company was often superficial. They also were increasing better off and no longer felt the need to save and be frugal.
In this new environment a dramatic shift occurred in values as increasingly young Americans, who no longer felt the need to embrace an austere existence of self-discipline, elected instead to enjoy themselves. In place of living a restrained and boring life like their parents, they often wanted to express themselves and find some excitement in their interaction with other young people.
While this shift in values undoubtedly represented a better balance between work and life, there was always the danger that the search for self expression and personal satisfaction would eventually lead people to become self indulgence or even self destructive. While that later situation may have developed in the late sixties with the rise of LSD and the drug culture for some teenagers, in the early 50s and 60s the teenager culture for most young people seemed more liberating and exciting than self destructive.
What Should a Teenager Look Like?
The Style of Young Women
To express their new search for individuality. teenagers and their new youth culture also placed a lot of attention on their personal appearance. But that emphasis on their appearance should not surprise us. After all, the very first youth culture in America which is called the Jazz Age led to the development of the flapper, the first distinctive style of the young.
The Flapper Age
Prior to the 1920s the ideal of feminine beauty was labeled a Gibson Girl, who was a woman who had an hour glass figure with a narrow wait and a big bust. Because the young people of the Jazz Age wanted to carve out a separate identity for themselves, young girls rejected this traditional view of an ideal women and adopted in its place bob (short) haircuts, and vertical dresses that deemphasized their figure. In place of female curves, they favored a flat chested and even masculine appearance.
To retain some degree of femininity, young flappers also raised their hemlines and began to show their ankles, a daring move at the time. To emphasize their new risqué look, the flappers often wore nylons stocking and wore expensive looking pumps or high heels.
The Bobby Sox Age of the 40s
However, by 1940s the flapper age was losing its appeal. Young girls now adopted a more wholesome look which is today called the Bobby Sox look. In place of a vertical dress they often shied away from dresses and started to wear full bodied skirts with tight fitting sweaters. They were known as Bobby Sox girls because they started to wear either saddle shoes or loafers with ankle high socks and showed bare legs instead of wearing pumps and nylons.
The Rock and Roll Age.
While the Jazz Age and its successor had a distinctive style, what was notable about the growth our Rock and Roll Age was its fleeting embrace of multiple styles. There were perhaps three reasons for this growth of diversity. First, as the teenager population dramatically increased in size, it was impossible for just one style to appeal to all young people. Secondly in its embrace of modernity, the post WWII generation also seemed intent on trying out a successor of styles, none of which seemed to last more than a few years. Thirdly, in the Rock and Roll age more so than in the Jazz age, teenagers, who had embraced a culture that stressed individuality, were always striving to try something new.
If we take hair as an example, long hair was back in style after the short and rather plain styles of World War II. This so called bouffant hair or long hair style which got its name from a French word which means to puff or fluff up, first appeared in the late 1950s and became popular because of two innovations in the late 1950s: the roller which was used to lift and wind hair, and lacquer spray which held the curves of the large bouffant in place. Teenagers who would set their hair in heavy roller every night often slept with their rollers in the hope of appearing more attractive the next day at school.
However, by the 1960s Jacqueline Kenney helped popularize a variant on the Bouffant hairdo which became know as the flip style which was a bouncy hairdo where the end of a woman’s long hair was flipped upward. This style which was worn by many young women in the 1960s, including many of our female classmates, was soon copied by Raquel Welch, Jane Fonda and Catherine Deneuve.
But the Bouffant wave soon modified by some young teenagers into a Beehive, a hair style in which long hair is piled up in conical shape on the top of the head. Celebrities like Bridgett Bardo, Priscilla Pressley to Tammy Wynette helped popularized the style in the 1960s.
Despite the Beehives appeal, the younger generation’s desire to constantly remake themselves eventually led many of them to adopt a more radical turn at the end of the decade. As the Viet Nam war lingered on and the hippie movement arose to oppose it, more women embraced longer and more unkempt hairdos to signal their displeasure with public policies.
The style by which young women wore their hair now became a means by which they elected to challenge conventional values. As more and more women became concerned about political issues, many choose to wear unkempt long hair either middle parted or with bangs that fell below the eyebrows to proclaim their independence from societal norms.
Changing Notions of Fashion.
The change in hair styles was also reflected in how women dressed. It is possible to generally identify four trends in women’s clothes during the Rock and Roll Age.
First, in the early 1950s women stressed elegance, often bought glamorous clothes, and stressed European high fashion. Many women eagerly embraced the French style of Christian Dior with its nipped in the waist and full skirted silhouette. Among our female classmates this closest we came to this fascination with European fashion or quasi high fashion was reflected in the popularity of Lanz dresses, a style, which originated in Austria, which was worn by many of our classmates when we were in Jr. high and high school,
However with time the above female fashion became straighter and slimmer. But the early 1960s no one style dominated teenager let alone women’s fashion. In this second period in the 60s, skirts could be full or narrow and dresses could be form fitting sheaths and or looser hung sack like dresses.
By the middle of the 60s, young Americans began to adopt a third style as they began to wear mini skirts, a fashion designed made popular in England. To described this new trend, in which women’s skirts were four or five inches about the knee, people talked about women showing more skin. This new style led to people coining a new word “expose” in the 1960s to capture this new sexually charged change in women’s fashion. Nancy Sinatra’s popular song “These boots were meant for walking” completed this new look as many daring young women combined white boots with colorful mini skirts. For those women with more modest taste, the decision to wear panty hose helped to mute the controversy about miniskirts.
Finally, with the rise of a more combative youth culture, young women and even some professional women often embraced a fourth style in which anything seemed appropriate. The mini dress and panty hose often gave way to blue jeans, a sweatshirt and tennis shoes. While in the 1950s young women wanted to be fashionable, by the end of the 1960s many teenagers and college women wanted to be non conformist and adopted a unisex look to express their individuality.
What Should a Teenager Look Like
The Case of Men
If young women went through a dizzying array of hair and fashion choices, males went through a more modest array of appearance changes.
In terms of hairdos there were five main hair styles that defined the age. First was the Pompadour made popular by Elvis Presley, James Dean and Little Richard. It was made popular by some of the earliest Rock and Roll singers, both white and black. In this hairstyle men combed their hair upwards and back creating a high and voluminous pomp on top. It is the male counterpart of the female Beehive hairdo.
While early Rock stars favored a Pompadour hair style, men from the military and many athletic teenagers in the 1950s, who saw Johnny Unites, the famous quarterback of the Baltimore Colts, as their idol, imitated him by cutting their hair in a Flattop style. This style was almost the polar opposite of a Pompadou as it a very short haircut that was level at the top.
By the time we went to high school most men wore a Classic 60s hair cut which was parted on the side and moderately combed over the top of the scalp. Other names associated with this hair do was the Ivy League look or just the Side Part.
In contrast individuals who wanted to make more of a rebellious statement and act like the tough guys in school often combed their hair in a Duck Tail often combined with a modest Pompadour. They were often known as Greasers and this hair style was popular in John Travolta and Olivia Newton-John’s movie Grease.
By the end of the 1960s as the youth culture began to embrace the Hippie culture, long unkempt hair was in and many young men wore their hair shoulder length. In a strange twist on sexual differences, young men and women often had embraced comparable hair styles.
Finally, if we look at clothes, male teenager went from wearing khaki and corduroy pants to wearing jeans, and shirts to sweatshirts. By the end of the 60s the style of men’s clothing, like female clothing, was noted for its absence of style as just about anything was acceptable. Once again, men and women also acquired similar hair and clothing styles. By the end of the 1960s a hippie unisex culture had emerged that appealed to some, but certainly not all teenagers.
The New Teenage Culture of Dating
The Desire for Privacy
A third important part of the new youth cultured that developed in the 1960s involved the desire of young people for a personal sense of space or privacy.
In the early part of the 20th century, privacy was not a major value in American households. After all most Americans were not that well off and most homes built before 1940s were less than 900 square feet and were often built in a Craftsman style in which a large porch marked the entrance to the home. In California, a popular variant of this architectural style was called the California bungalow.
Since homes were very small, teenagers often did not have their own room. Because before 1930s less than half of the homes had electricity, there was no reason for children let alone adult to stay inside their house as most homes lacked both radios and televisions. Since air conditioning did not become common in most American homes until the 1960s, most American families retreated to the outdoor porch where they socialized in the evening to cool off. Since these early Craftsman homes lacked the space to insure privacy to your teenagers, young children had to constantly interact with their parents.
Retiring Inside
However by the 1940s Americans had become wealthier and architectural styles began to change. By the post WWII period families who had once lived in homes where life centered on socializing on their front porch, now retired inward. California where builders had once constructed many bungalow homes in the early part of the century with front porches, now replaced them with ranch style homes which eliminated the porch all together. Increasingly ranch style home or in Sacramento Eichler homes in South Land Park, became the preferred style of home
Besides changing their styles, homes became bigger, and as families acquired radios and even TVs, teenagers often acquired the right to choose their own type of entertainmentin their own rooms. In these newfound ranch homes, teenagers increasingly began to insist on the privacy of their own rooms. In place of the whole family listening to the same radio stations, young teenagers acquired the right to choose their own type of entertainment,
This change is evident in the neighborhoods that serviced McClatchy. Most of the homes at the northern border of McClatchy’s district close to Broadway were 900 square foot California Bungalow homes. As Sacramento grew and became more prosperous, homes built south of Broadway were increasingly ranch style homes that were often 1500 sq. feet or 50% larger than older Bungalow homes. In the neighborhoods that attended Joaquin Miller, many families even lived in Eichler homes that were over 2000 square feet, a 100% increase over the earlier built Bungalow homes, a size which often guaranteeing every teenager his or her own private room.
If changing architectural styles facilitated a new teenager culture, the growing popularity of automobiles played an evenmore revolutionary role in the creation of this new youth culture.The growth of American families which enabled them to afford a car, created a whole new realm of independence and freedom for young people.
The Rise of Modern Dating
One of the most striking changes in our lives as teenagers was the changing nature of dating patterns in the 50s. Prior to WWII, most young people never dated as we did in the 1960s. Before cars became widespread, men and women had few chances to be alone. Whether it was on the front porch on in the family’s living rooms, teenagers found that their interactions withthe opposite sex were often chaperoned by the girl’s parents.
However as people become more prosperous after WWII, teenagers increasingly had the opportunity to borrow their dad’s car which enabled them to escape the preying eyes oftheir date’s parents, enjoying in the process a degree of privacy with their dates that their parents had never enjoyed.
In the 1960s guys and their date could spend time alone going to movies, eating at a fast food restaurant or enjoying a sundae at Vics, and depending on the degree of affection making out in the car before the night ended. The degree of freedom and privacy enjoyed by teenagers of our age was unprecedented in the 1960s.
The Growth of Teenager Entertainment
Finally, as the number of young people multiplied, their increasingly well to do families enabled their children to pursue their own unique form of entertainment. For example, in the Jazz Age the wealthy often sent their teenage sons and daughters off to Ivy League colleges. In the Jazz Age colleges were more like country clubs for wealthy teenagers and flappers than what we think of colleges today. Most of those attending were not primarily interesting in learning a vocation or acquiring an education. On the contrary they went to college to primarily enjoy themselves and perhaps make connections thatwould later be useful in the business world.
The Growth of Sports
As part of their enjoyment college students at Ivy League colleges soon made football a favorite pastime. While initially football was primary an amusing exercise at private colleges in the northeast, the sports soon appealed to all colleges as well as high schools inAmerica. Our high school interest in football was merely a continuation of student behavior that began in the Jazz age. To the surprise of many, a form of entertainment that initially appeal to young people in the 1920s and 1960s soon became a national pastime.
The Growth of Music
While the growth of sports was certainly a distinguishing feature of this new youth culture in America, it paled in comparison to the growing importance of music to young people. With the growing popularity of radio and record players in the 1920s, young people began to listen to music as their favorite pastime. Increasingly as part of this new youth culture, teenagers wanted to purchase a radio, a record player, as well as 45 records to enhance their listening pleasure. While the 1920s wanted to listen to Jazz, our generation wanted to listen to listen to either Rock and Rock or the Rhythm and Blues.
Regardless of what style of music these different decades preferred, the appeal of radio and records in both the 20s and 60s was obviously. Unlike going to the movies which involved a major expense each time, teenagers realized that if the bought a radio or record players they could listed to their favorite form of entertainment for hours without incurring any other costs.
Ironically enough the primitive technology of the 1930s ending up shaping the listening habits of America during our high school days. When records were first made, companies were only able to record music for roughly 3 minutes. If you are old enough to remember, records came in three sizes 78s, 45s or 33s. These sizes refereed to the number of revolutions per minutes the record revolved on the turntable. The only way companies could record longer songs was to either slow down the revolutions per minute or to cut more groves in the vinyl record disc. It was only when the speed of the record was slowed to 33rpms, that a record could hold a song for a time period longer than 3 minutes.
But by the time technology had advanced to the point where it could alter America’s listening habits, people in general and teenagers in particular had become accustomed to hearing songs that lasted only 3 minutes. When the technology finally evolved to record longer lasting song tracks, teenagers felt that 3 minutes was the appropriate time for a song to last. An ancient and obsolete technology had over time altered and limited the way we listen to music even today.
Regardless of its format music quickly became an integral part of the lifestyle of most adolescents. Despite its popularity among teenagers, few radio stations had designed programs specifically to appeal to teenagers. But by early 1950s that process began to change. As TV became popular after WWII, adults began to abandon their interest in the radio and elected to enjoy their entertainment time by watching television.
In light of the changing demographics, AM and FM radio stations started orienting their programming to young teenagers which helped them think of themselves as a unique part of society. Two factors made the radio popular among teenagers. By 1952 half of all cars came equipped with radios. As increasingly the dating culture of teenagers revolved around being alone with your date in the car, teenagers associated dating with listening to music. Secondly, this process was made even more attractive by the rise of the Dis Jockey who often talked about issues that troubled teenagers. In the movie American Graffiti, Wolfman Jack, is comparable to a teenager guru whom teenagers seek out for advice.
The growing popularity of this new form radio entertainment helped the emerging youth culture to achieve a distinctive identity that set them apart from their parents.
A Summary
But the change in music was only part of this newly emerging youth movement. By the 1960s a teen culture had evolved that centered around the car, the radio, music, high school clubs and rallies, Friday night football games, individual dating, make out parties, the latest harirdos and the constantly changing fashion in teeneage clothing. In pursuit of self- expression and excitement, teenagers of the post WWII generation had forged a separate and unique youth culture that found its best depiction in George Lucas’ movie “American Graffiti.” While our generation cruised K Street in Sacramento, rather than Modesto, the significant of our actions was that all over the country young people had created a new culture that teenagers in every city of America seemed to share. Tomorrow we will try to see how the growth of this new teenage population with its distinctive youth culture helped to rehaped the social norms of the US.
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